Even More Update Pics

Been busy around here. First there was DragonCon then we had to get ready to leave for Hawaii. A week in Hawaii... so there has not been much time to work on R2.

Here are some update pictures of what he looks like now.

More Updated pictures

He is missing his bottom ring and\or skirt because I am still working on the rear door and the rear Power Coupler mounting.

Front ViewSide View
3/4 View
Shoulder

DragonCon

Even Cookie Monster showed up, though we didn't get a great picture of him

Update Pics

Just a couple update pictures:

Status Update

Well DragonCon is over. I only spent a day there, but I did get some R2 building done. I made a major push to get some things complete. Over the weekend I shaved the center ankle mounting block down adn now the center foot is mounted. I finished painting all the feet, ankles, and legs. This includes all the blue parts too. The Radar Eye is also painted blue too. I then moved to the dome where I cut the large hole for the 1 piece Front Logic Port (FLP). I then drilled and counter sunk screws for the FLP, Rear Logic Port, and all Holoprojectors. He is now looking more like a complete R2 droid.

Photos coming soon....

Leg to Ankle Upgrade

Well the leg to ankle upgrade is complete, well sort of. I plan on adding a 1/8" plate that will run all the way down the ankle to the axle, but for now there are just some nuts JB Welded to the ankle. i used Grade 8 bolts to ensure that they would not shear and drilled out the ankles and legs to fit the new bolts.

I JB Welded nuts to the plate inside the ankle to give the bolts something to screw into. As mention before, one set of nuts is there until I create the 1/8" plate. Right now they only keep the leg in place.

I got some 1/4" aluminum plates and drilled them so they will fit between the leg and ankle and keep the correct spacing on the bracelet.



All Assembled

Painting 102

No real pictures of this... not very interesting. All leg pieces have been masked and primed.

Painting 101

Not much done physically to R2 over the weekend. The Olympics were on and while watching and listening to the stupid comments from the commentators I took apart R2... again. I was hoping to get the new plates to update the leg to ankle joint and have him up on his feet and assembled for a progress picture. Now he is in pieces again, but they are now all masked off and ready to be primed and painted. I hop to have the primer coats on by the end of Tuesday. The final layers may have to wait as they are calling for some major rain here.

Shoulder Hub Update

As promised here are the pictures. I mounted the hubs using rare earth magnets.





Here is is an update photo on what the feet currently look like.

Shoulder Hubs

I finished mounting the shoulder hubs. I will update later with pictures. I attached the magnets together with some wax paper between them. I them applied some JB Weld to the new magnet and put the shoulder hub into the leg. After a while I pulled the hub out and separated the magnets. I then put the magnets back into position with another magnets, on the other side of the leg, holding them in place and squeezed towards the leg wall.

Weekend Update 2

Finished drilling the shoulder hubs. I JB Welded some rare earth magnets in the holes. They are now ready for mounting. I just need to attach some magnets on the legs. It will be interesting to see how the JB Weld reacts with the magnets. You can acually see the JB Weld interact with the magnetic fields.

I finished the final foot shell, and applied some white primer to the shells. I also cut all the craided hose and tubes. I now need to cut the nuts that will hold the KHFs on the feet.

Weendend Update 1

I mounted the rockler bearing on the top ring. I had mounting holes on the top ring, but they got in the way of the shoulder hubs and the large data port. I had to drill out the other holes on the outer bearing and drill new holes in the top ring. I then tapped the ring and reassembled. This should be the last time the frame needs to be taken apart for some time.

I also filed down the last ankle wedge. These things just didn't line up at all. I don't really think the wedges are the problem. I think there were some issues in the production of the ankles where some durfaces are not completely flat and the angles are off.

I have a few thing on my list to try and get done this weekend. Ipdates and pictures coming...

Just some little things

Updated status

Feet:
I have the battery boxes semi attached to the foot shells. There are some minor modifications that need to be done to get them fully attached. I will probably leave the lower attachment until I get the motors hooked up. I just need to make some adjustments to the KHF holes on one foot ans the foot shells are done and ready for their white primer. I have 1 braided hose done. I just need to grind down the nuts to fasten the KHF fittings on the feet and the battery boxes and the feet are completely finished.

Ankles:
I have 1 more wedge\cylinder combo to file and adjust to make it fit the center ankle. The only outstanding issue to to get the center ankle mounting block ground down to fit the ankle.

Legs:
I don't have to, at this point, but I will probably dill out the leg to ankle joint to upgrade the bolts that I already purchased. I have to finish mounting the under the shoulder details. The only other thing I need on the Legs is the Shoulder hubs. I think I have an idea on how to mount them, I just need to get some time to drill out the backs of the hubs to accept the magnets.

I will probably post an image of where r2 is at some point.

Alternate Krider Blue Test

Ok I used some scrap to test the blue using the Krylon X-Metal Purple. I used a white primer and then 2 coats of the purple. I let the purple dry over night and masked it off. I sprayed the Duplicolor Blue on in 2 coats and then the clear in 3 coats. I did one more test with this setup. On half of the finished blue, I used an acrylic wax and sealant. I know I should have let the clear dry for 24-48 hours, but with the light coats and quicker time intervals the paint was fairly dry for this test.

The Purple with the White primer masked off


The blue in diffferent lighting: (You can start to see the purple show through in the highlights)

Pay no attention to the blemishes on the paint. The painting was done outside without a paint booth to cover it. The days were hto and humid... rain in the area. Take notice of the color\deep rich change in the blue in each picture. The acrylic sealant gave the blue a much deeper\wetter look. The video i have show this transition a little better.





This video shows how the Color changes in different lighting, well as much as I can show it. Take notice at the end of the video how the reflection of the light changes where the acrylic layer starts.

LDP Installed

Last night I got the LDP install. I had to drill through the LDP on at least one hole to get the the screws to bite. I plan on filling this hole before it is painted, so it will not be seen. I reassembled the frame and skins afterwards and everything lines up.

Weekend Build

Busy build weekend. The first thing I worked on is cutting 1 of the braided hoses and testing out the KHF. It looks like I will need to cut the hose a little longer as the braided hose expanded a little and shortened the length as I put a section of tube in side.

I moved to putting a coat of white primer on the center foot. This is just a base coat for the foot since I plan on using Satin White later, but I already used a gray primer to stop any rust on the foot. The white primer will cover up the gray one better.

I needed to put the mounting screws in the battery boxes so I can start figuring out how to attach the boxes so they don't rattle. I marked the location of the holes and then drilled and tapped them.


Next I drilled and tapped the ankle cylinders so the wedges can attach to the cylinders. I lined up and measured the first cylinder and made a jig to do the other 3. A few adjustments need to be made before the cylinders and attached wedges can be moutned on to the ankles. I expanded a few holes, but the center ankle has one wedge combo that is really going to need some fitting.

I primed and test sprayed a piece of scrap to test the Krylon X-Metal purple as an alternative to the elusive Rustoleum. More to come on that.

The last thing I worked on was mounting the LDP to the frame. I mounted the LDP and marked it's location. I then drilled and counter sunk holes for screws. I now just have to drill and tap holes in the LDP.

Back to the Feet

Not much going on since I have been busy. I did counter sink the holes in the center foot shell and attached some screws to the foot strips. I will do the same for the outer shells tomorrow.

PSI Test

Ok so now a test with the PSIs. This is a lit room, and the camera exposure adjustment is going a little crazy causing some weird color transitions that aren't there in person.

Update:
The color transitions are are fade the color switches immediately using a different command.



The tube is a resin on from Keith. The the filters are pieces of milks jugs. There are 2 inside the tube and the one that is being held is the rough part, usually at the handle. The color test is the same test routine as was done with the holoprojectors. The tube is open at the back and the inside should be lined with aluminum tape to improve the lighting effect. There is a little bit of a hot spot, not as much as it appears in the video, but if the LED is moved further away it goes away without any decrease in the lighting

My Archnemisis

Well my ambitious plans to have the feet and legs 98% done over the weekend went down in flames, as real life stepped in. I did get to play around with my new LEDs for the Holoprojectors some though.

Some things I did get done over the weekend:
1) enlarged the holes on 1 foot shell to allow the KHFings to fit with the foot strip in the correct position.

2) I started cutting some more of 1 leg to figure out how to install the under the shoulder details.

3) I took on my archnemisis... the top ring of the frame.

For my Large Data Ports to fit, I have to cut back the top ring's slot about a 1/4". This piece has gone through a couple fo cutting disks without and head way. Well I started cutting perpendicular slots for about 1" along the area to be cut. I then dremeled down until at least this area was cut off. Now that I had a little area to work with, the recip saw came out and took care of the rest of the ring.

Ace Hardware

Ace is a great place to find almost anyhting you need to build your droid. the problem is store are really hit or miss as to how good they are.

At the risk of giving up a good resource. Those builders in Atlanta, I have found one of the best. This one is on Highway 120 just above I-285 and off of I-75N. It is across the street from Sherlock's. This store just opened up as it moved from another site. The selection of hardware is one of the largest I have seen and almost everything is in stock. The store is wider than it is deep and the entire back wall is lined with screws, nuts, and bolts. They have stuff in their drawers I have not seen at other stores and put The Big H and L to shame.

Holoprojector Illumination

Well I now have a new toy to play with. I have just been testing it now as it just came in last night. These look like they are going to work out very well. A quick teaser until I can get some photos and have the time to write something up on it. I also wanted to test out how the our HD camera's video shows up on the blog.

BTW, the video was taken in a lit room with all the windows open. This setup is only the default color switching. The real setup will be a blue flickering. The flickering can be sequenced to sound or programed into the LED. The programed version makes only power vires to be run up to the LED to trigger the color changing.

Ankle Details

Nothing special today. During lunch I went to check out an Ace near my work. It turns out the Ace is fully stocked in screws and hardware. I picked up a bunch of new screws and lock washers to mount he ankle details. These replaced the hex socket cap screws that came with the hardware.

I plan on going back tomorrow to get some more screws and other hardware for some ideas I have to mount the other details on the legs.

Hoses and Feet

Had to goto a homeowners meeting so I only had enough time to enlarge the hole for the hose fittings. No picture since this was a basic operation.

More Foot Work

Rounding out the weekend, I decided to work on the feet some more. I marked out the holes in the side of the foot shells for the motor mounts. I then cut the holes out using my Dremel. I then mounted the motor mounts and marked and drilled the holes to mount them to the foot shells.


I decided to also take a look at the under the shoulder details. I drilled a small hole to tap a threaded rod into. I will cut a hole in the legs to allow me to use a wing nut to attach the detail to the legs.

Booster Mounting

Toady I decided to mount eh booster covers on the legs. I have some older legs that do not have the keyhole slots sut in them, so I had to make my own mounting system. First I fitted everything together and marked out where the boosters sit on the leg. I used the center strut as a guide.


Next I measured where the holes where on the booster and marked them on the legs.

I then double checked my measurements with the blueprints and I even put a piece of paper on the boosters and punched holes in it where the screws go. I then lined the paper on the legs, just to triple check everything. I drilled the holes for the screws and then drilled a larger hole .375 inches above the smaller ones. I used a small thin hack saw blade to cut teh connecting piece between the two holes. Once I had a channel between the two holes I filed the channel flat.

Large Data Port

I had a few panels on the skins pop off, so I cleaned them up and re JB Welded them on.

i also took the frame apart and looked at the large data port slot. Thsi slot need to be cut to allow the piece to sit further back. I took the top most horizontal piece off the Utility Arm carrier and then put the LDP into the opening. I clamped the LDP ontot he top ring and marked the cut. I now just have to cut the frame. Looks like it is time for reciprocating saw to come out.

Foot Work

I need to cut the holes for the foot motors. I started marking out the hole on the foot shell and took out the handy Dremel. I almost finished the first one before I had to stop for the night.

No pictures yet... I so covered in metal filings, slag, and pieces of cutting disk that i didn't want that all over the camera.

Rear Door Attachment

I started attaching the rear Door to the back of the droid. I am still waiting on some magnets, but I fashioned a "channel" for the top of the skins to slide into. I used some scrape pieces of skin since they had the correct curvature. I JB Welded them onto the top and will attach the bottom of the skins with magnets. The top slides on perfect.

A Labor of Love

I realy thought that the skins would all be done today... BUT I had an issue come up last night an I was only able to get a few of the remaining panels on. I only have 3 more panels to attach and the skins, minus the doors, will be done. I am kind of burned out on skins at the moment and looking back I probably should have worked on somethign else after doing the rears. There is much innovative stuff to doing the skins, but, file, glue, then clamp. At least this weekend I will be able to move on to mounting brackets, feet, and the dome. I haven't really decided on what to do next. I may move onto the mounting brackets to get some skin panels attached. I do have to cut the holes for the feet as well. I probably will do a little of both. I have some ideas on mounting the detail pieces, but we will have to see.

Skin Me

1 more night and the skins will be done, except for the doors. Tonight The front skins got one last filing and then were JB Welded together.


I actually used every single clamp I have and I could still have used a few more. I went the JB Weld route on the front because there aren't too many panels like the rear door to apply JB Weld from the rear to fix any issues. So now I am covered in JB Weld marks, but the skins are almost done. I used the coins slots to help align the skins, but once the skins were clamped I removed them. Toothpicks make great helpers in clamping the skins between the coin slot openings.

I also foudn some spots where the rear door was pulling apart. I clamped it together and applied some JB Weld to hold the pieces together.

Some Fixing, Finishing, and Some Prepping

I lightly sanded the feet and sprayed another coat of primer on them. This should do them until the white paint... or more primer after I cut the motor holes.

I then fixed the skins in the the area where the Super 77 didn't adhere the skins very well. I mixed up some JB Weld and clamped the skins together.




Next I started preparing the front skins to be bonded together. First I needed the coin slots to be able to attach to the skins. I had already cut the holes, but I needed to coutner sink the screw heads to be flush with the inner skins. I then used some of the JB Weld mixture and welded the screw heads onto the inner skins.




Yes, from the images you can see that the coin slots are backwards. This is to keep the coin slots away from the JB Weld on the screws but still keeping the screws aligned and in position.